This bottle — named after the pop star’s favourite tarot card, the Nine of Swords — does what all great wines do: it commands your attention, taps your emotion and leaves you a little bit spellbound after the first sip. From its sunlit fragrance of midsummer strawberries and sliced white peaches to its silky eruption on the palate, this wine captivates. Flavours immediately cascade with barely there suggestions of ripe berries, warm stones and a whisper of white pepper before tapering to a long languid finish of lemon, bitter orange then finally grapefruit. Allusive, articulate and pure, this quiet interplay of aromas and flavours flits like quicksilver on the nose and palate, feeling emotive and drawing you back for more. Score: 95